How does water move as waves pass? Water moves linearly in the opposite direction to wave movement. |
Water moves in a CIRCLE in the SAME direction as wave movement. |
How does wave amplitude change with depth in water? Wave amplitude decreases as depth increases. |
Wave amplitude decreases as depth increases. |
What is the wave base? the lower limit of wave-induced motion in the water |
the lower limit of wave-induced motion in the water |
What is the relationship between wave base and wavelength? The depth of the wave base is two-thirds the wavelength of the waves. |
The depth of the wave base is one-half the wavelength of the waves |
Why does wave height increase as waves enter shallow water? The energy of the wave must be contained within a larger water column in shallow water. |
The ENERGY of the wave must be contained within a SMALLER water column in shallow water. |
Why do ocean waves bend around headlands? The waves are moving faster just in front of the headland, causing the waves to bend. |
The waves are moving more SLOWLY just in front of the headland, causing the waves to bend. |
What is refraction? the bending of waves due to a change in wave phase |
the bending of waves due to a change in wave velocity |
How does wave refraction at headlands affect deposition and erosion? Wave refraction at the headland decreases deposition at the headland and causes erosion in adjacent bays. |
Wave refraction at the headland INCREASES EROSION at the headland and causes deposition in adjacent bays. |
What is the crest of a wave? the distance between the highest and lowest part of the wave |
the highest part of the wave |
What is the trough of a wave? the distance between consecutive wave crests or troughs |
the lowest part of the wave |
What is the wave height? the distance between the highest and lowest part of the wave |
the distance between the highest and lowest part of the wave |
What is the wavelength? the lowest part of the wave |
the distance between consecutive wave crests or troughs |
What is the wave period? -the distance between the highest and lowest part of the wave -the time it takes for one wavelength of a wave to pass a particular point -the distance between consecutive wave crests or troughs – the lowest part of the wave |
the TIME it takes for one wavelength of a wave to pass a particular point |
How are wave period and wavelength related? Waves with shorter periods have longer wavelengths. |
Waves with shorter periods have shorter wavelengths. |
Which of the following statements about wave period is most accurate? Wave period is the inverse of wave frequency. |
Wave period is the inverse of wave frequency. |
Wave refraction is __________. also known as an internal wave |
the bending of waves |
What causes wave refraction? Offshore sand bars that cause waves to break offshore. |
The part of a wave in shallow water slows down, causing the wave to bend and line up nearly parallel to the shore. |
Most of the year, and most of the time, the movement of sediment and water (longshore current) along the California coast is from __________. |
North to South |
What is an interference pattern? The wavelength produced when a new wave is created. |
The wave pattern produced when two or more waves interact. |
What results when two waves, in phase and with the same wavelength, interact? A wave with an amplitude that is the sum of the amplitudes of the initial two waves. |
A wave with an amplitude that is the SUM of the amplitudes of the initial two waves |
What does the term "in phase" refer to? Waves in phase have different wavelengths and are aligned peak-to-peak and trough-to-trough |
Waves in phase have identical wavelengths and are aligned peak-to-peak and trough-to-trough |
When will perfect constructive interference occur for waves that are in phase and moving at the same velocity? When waves with identical amplitudes interfere. |
When waves with identical wavelengths interfere |
When will perfect destructive interference occur? When two waves that have long wavelength interfere. |
When two waves that are 180 degrees out-of-phase interfere. |
What occurs more often, pure destructive, pure constructive, or mixed interference? Mixed interference |
Mixed interference |
Which of the following are names for large ocean waves that can be created by constructive interference? |
Rogue Waves Superwaves Freak waves |
Of the following statements about tsunami, which is/are true? -Tsunami always express themselves at the coast as a single rapid surge of water towards the shore. |
-The tsunami warning system uses seismic waves and deep-ocean pressure sensors to detect tsunami. -Tsunami have a very long wavelength, so they travel at very high speeds (equivalent to the speed of a jet airplane). -Tsunami are undetectable by ships in the open ocean. -At the coast, a tsunami looks like a suddenly occurring high or low tide, which is why they are misnamed "tidal waves." |
What is a tsunami? a series of water waves that travel away from a fault in all directions at low speed |
a series of water waves that travel away from a fault in all directions at high speed |
How are tsunamis generated? through displacement of the seafloor above water |
through displacement of the seafloor under water |
Why do ships at sea tend not to notice tsunamis? Tsunamis in deep water have small wave height and long wavelength. |
Tsunamis in deep water have SMALL wave height and LONG wavelength. |
Why does the wave height of a tsunami increase as the tsunami enters shallow water? In shallow water, the wind driving the tsunami must push a larger water column. |
In shallow water, the ENERGY of the tsunami must be contained within a SMALLER water column. |
What type of plate boundary are most tsunamis associated with? convergent plate boundaries |
convergent plate boundaries |
Which ocean is associated with most tsunamis? Arctic Ocean |
Pacific Ocean |
Will Sumatra experience another tsunami like the destructive one of December 2004? This is unlikely, because Sumatra is near many ocean trenches. |
This is likely, because Sumatra is near many ocean trenches. |
Which of the following best describes how scientists help the public prepare for an earthquake event? -Scientists can predict when earthquakes will happen and alert the public because there are many precursors and signs that an earthquake is about to occur. |
-Scientists cannot predict when exactly an earthquake will occur, but they can identify tectonically active areas that are likely to produce earthquake activity and let the public know they are in an earthquake-prone area. |
Look at the accompanying map showing the locations of the 15 largest earthquakes in the world since 1900. Imagine an earthquake occurs at location 2 on the map (southern Alaska), which could generate a tsunami. Which of the following statements are most accurate |
All locations (except 9) could benefit from an alert that an earthquake occurred at location 2, because they are near the ocean and might experience a resultant tsunami. Most of the people living at location 2 probably are aware that they live in a location where earthquakes are likely. |
Look again at the map. An earthquake at which of the following locations could cause a tsunami? |
All of the locations except 9 could produce tsunamis, as all are subduction zones involving at least one oceanic plate |
The diagram below shows a perspective view of a set of waves moving to the right. Match each letter with the correct feature of a wave. |
1. D: Wave height 2. F: Wave base 3. C: Crest 4. B: Still water level 5. E: Trough 6. A: Wavelength |
On this image of a storm area, match the correct letter to each of the following items. |
1. C: Wave fronts 2. B: Limit of the storm 3. A: Fetch |
This diagram illustrates the phenomenon of wave interference (results not shown). Correctly match the letter with each type of interference that would be produced by the overlapping of the sets of waves shown below. |
1. A: Destructive interference 2. C: Constructive interference 3. B: Mixed interference |
In this perspective view of waves approaching shore, match the correct letter to each of the following items. |
1. C: Wavelength decreases in nonbreaking waves 2. D: Depth equals one-half wavelength 3. A: Surf zone 4. B: Waves with constant wavelength 5. E : Velocity decreases and wave height increases until wave breaks |
The map below shows global coastal wave energy resources. Using what you’ve learned about ocean waves, match the letters to the correct colors. |
1. C: Color that represents a middle value of wave energy 2. B: Color that represents the lowest value of wave energy 3. A: Color that represents the highest value of wave energy |
Ocean surface waves are: |
orbital waves |
Most ocean waves form as a result of: |
winds blowing across the ocean surface. |
Ripple like clouds in the sky are an example of ________ waves. |
atmospheric |
Tidal movement, turbidity currents, wind stress, and even passing ships at the surface create ________ waves. internal |
internal |
Sound travels as ________ waves. |
longitudinal |
Waves at the ocean surface are ________ waves. |
orbital |
_______ waves also known as side-to-side waves. |
Transverse |
________ waves also known as push-pull waves. |
longitudinal |
Ocean waves in motion are classified as ______waves. |
orbital |
Of the following statements about ocean waves, which is/are true? |
Ocean waves can be described by their period, wavelength, and height. Ocean waves can be classified by the way in which they form. Ocean waves can be classified by the depth of water in which they move. |
The time between two successive waves is called the __________. |
period |
Wave speed is equal to __________. (a) wave height divided by frequency |
wavelength divided by period |
The circular motion of water molecules extends to a depth that is equal to __________. (a) wave height/wavelength |
wavelength/2 |
A deep-water wave occurs when the water depth is equal to __________. (a) the fetch |
D.1/2 of wavelength |
The speed of a deep-water wave is proportional to __________. |
E. wavelength |
The speed of a shallow-water wave is proportional to __________. (a) water depth |
water depth |
The horizontal distance between wave crest to crest is called the ________. wave frequency |
wavelength |
The time it takes one full wave to pass a fixed position is called the ________. wave frequency |
wave period |
The number of wave crests passing a fixed location per unit of time is called the ________. wave period |
wave frequency |
The depth below the surface where the circular orbits become so small that movement is negligible is called the ________. wave height |
wave base |
What is the speed in meters per second of a deep water wave with a wavelength of 1.5 meters? 1.53 meters per second |
1.53 meters per second |
What is the speed in meters of a deep water wave w a wavelength of 5 meters 7.8 meters per second |
2.8 meters per second |
Speed in meters per second of a deep water wave w/ wavelength of 3.5 meters 2.92 meters per second |
2.34 |
Submarines sometimes ride out heavy storms in deep water by submerging. Practical application of utilizing the: principle of decreasing orbital motion with depth |
Principle of decreasing orbital motion with depth |
You live on an island in the Pacific. An earthquake of magnitude 8.5 off the coast of Japan, 8000 km away, generates a tsunami with a wavelength of 200 km. The average water depth between your island and Japan is 4900 m. If a tsunami warning is issued for your island, how many hours will you have before the waves arrive? 8.51 hours |
10.14 hours |
Of the following statements which one describes wave period the time it takes for one full wavelength to pass a given point |
-Time it takes for one full wavelength to pass a given point -inverse of wave frequency |
Which one of the following variables is necessary to determine the speed of shallow-water waves? water depth |
water depth |
Based on graph what’s the approximate speed of a deep water wave w/ wavelength of 400 meters 12 meters per second |
25 meters per second |
Based on graph whah is the deep water wave w speed of 15 meters 3.5 seconds |
10 seconds |
Height of wave depends upon fetch, wind duration, and wind speed. |
Fetch, wind durations, wind speed |
In general the restoring force for wind-generated waves is: surface tension of water molecules. |
gravity |
Largest wind generated waves tend to be associated with the trade winds. |
westerlies |
Constructive interference results in larger waves whereas destructive interference produces swells. |
smaller waves |
In the open ocean 1 wave in ___ will be over twice the height of the wave average 50,000 |
23 |
In the open ocean 1 wave in ___ will be 4x height of the wave average 23 |
300,000 |
On average how many supertankers or containerships are reported missing each year without a trace? 5,000 |
10 |
Rogue waves are created along the "Wild Coast" off the southeast coast of ________, where the Agulhas Current flows directly against large Antarctic storm waves. Australia |
Africa |
Waves from separate sea areas move away as swell and produce an interference pattern when they come together. If Sea A has wave heights of 1.5 meters and Sea B has wave heights of 3.5 meters, what would be the height of waves resulting from constructive interference? 5.25 meters |
5 meters |
Waves from separate sea areas move away as swell and produce an interference pattern when they come together. If Sea A has wave heights of 2 meters and Sea B has wave heights of 5 meters, what would be the height of waves resulting from destructive interference? 7 meters |
3 meters |
"Whitecaps" form when _____________________. water depth is greater than 1/2 the wavelength |
Wave steepness reaches a ration of 1:7 |
What disturbing force is responsible for most ocean waves that eventually break on shore? massive migrations of marine animals rising to the surface |
Storm-generated winds that blow across the surface |
What triggers a wave traveling across the ocean to finally release its energy? Increases in wind speed push the wave into the surf zone. |
The wave begins to interact with the sea floor as it moves into shallower water. |
What causes the three different types of breakers? the size of the approaching wave |
The steepness of the beach slope |
Which of the following best describe a plunging breaker? forms on moderately sloped shorelines to create curling crests |
Forms on moderately sloped shorelines to create curling crests |
What type of breaker would pose the most danger to people playing or swimming in the surf zone? spilling breakers |
surging breakers |
A wave will begin to break when: wavelength < wave height. |
Steepness= 1:7 |
As a wave begins to feel bottom near a shoreline, its wave height: increases and its frequency decreases. |
Increases and its wavelength decreases |
Waves that are breaking along the shore and are forming curling crests over air pockets are called: spilling breakers. |
Plunging breakers |
Waves converge on headlands due to: constructive interference. |
Wave refraction |
If a surfer wishes to have a really long ride, what type of wave should he or she look for? surf |
spilling breakers |
Examine the five words and/or phrases and determine the relationship among the majority of words/phrases. Choose the one option that does not fit the pattern. Swell |
Swell |
Which type of breaker is a turbulent mass of air and water that runs down the front slope of the wave as it breaks? Plunging breaker |
Spilling breaker |
Which type of breaker has a curling crest that moves over an air pocket? Plunging breaker |
Plunging breaker |
Which type of breaker forms when the waves build up and break right at the shoreline? Plunging breaker |
Surging breakers |
Which type of breaker forms waves the present the greatest challenge to body surfers? Plunging breaker |
surging breaker |
Refraction causes headlands to be areas of ________ surfing and sites of _________. good; deposition |
good; erosion |
An unintended consequence of the jetty that protects the harbor entrance at Newport Harbor, California is a wave pattern that has crippled and killed many body surfers due to ________. destructive interference |
wave reflection |
As a wave approaches shore, its characteristics change by ________. increasing speed, decreasing steepness |
Decreasing speed, increasing steepness |
Of the following bathymetric conditions, which one(s) would likely produce spilling breakers? Choose all that apply. a steeply sloping, sandy bottom |
-A gently sloping, sandy bottom -A gently sloping, rocky bottom |
During a visit to the beach, you get in a small rubber raft and paddle out beyond the surf zone. You become tired, so you stop and take a rest. Describe the movement of your raft beyond the surf zone. |
-The raft moves in a circle, and it returns to essentially the same place -The raft’s net movement is not toward the shore compared to the surf zone |
Wave action creates and changes beaches drastically. The image below shows the movement of water and sand along a beach. |
Two top: Path of sand, beach drift & net movement of sand grains Left to right: incoming wave direction upstream direction longshore drift |
While you are playing Frisbee in the surf zone with another person, your friend watches while sitting on the beach nearby. After a while, you look up at the beach and realize you are no longer directly in front of your friend, who remained stationary on the beach all the while—you are still in the surf zone, but 30 to 40 yards from where you started. What is the correct reason for this movement? |
Waves were coming at the shore at an angle. The longshore current moved downstream to that angle and pushed you in that direction. |
The majority of tsunami are caused by underwater ________. fault movement |
Fault movement |
28) A tsunami is considered to be a ________. A) reflected wave |
shallow water wave |
Which of the following is the least frequent cause of a tsunami in recent centuries? Landslides |
meteorite impacts |
A vast majority of all large tsunami are generated in the ________ Ocean. Indian |
Pacific |
Which of the following caused the Indian Ocean tsunami of 2004? Fault movement |
fault movement |
Judge the following sentence according to the criteria given below: Transform faults do not generally generate tsunami BECAUSE the side-to-side movement of these faults does not change the volume of the ocean basin. The assertion and the reason are both correct, and the reason is valid. |
The assertion and the reason are both correct, and the reason is valid. |
Judge the following sentence according to the criteria given below: Many people call tsunami "tidal waves" BECAUSE they are related to the tides. |
The assertion is correct, but the reason is incorrect. |
A disadvantage shared by wave, solar and wind energy is that governments are unwilling to subsidize renewable forms of energy |
it is not available on demand, and there currently is no viable way to store the energy |
Conditions for the development of wave energy are most optimal along ________ shores in the ________ Hemisphere. eastern; Northern |
western; Southern |
OCE1001 Chapter 8
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